Image: Dr Martens
Footwear has always been a crucial segment of the fashion industry. People hate walking around in something uncomfortable and are constantly seeking new, stylish looks. One particular brand has enjoyed several decades worth of consistent and widespread popularity, and has emerged in numerous subcultures across the world. Thanks to younger consumers, especially those within Gen Z, Dr. Martens are undergoing their next renaissance. Their classic chunky soled-oxfords and leather boots have been a footwear staple for years. Dr Martens popularity has increased due to their perennial appeal achieved by staying with the trends. The popularity of unisex chunky platforms has Dr Martens sales booming within the fashion industry along with the classic Dr Martens boots. In 2023 alone the brand pulled in about $1.25 billion in revenue. However, this legendary brand did not just start from the top, but rather the very bottom.
Unisex Chunky Platforms. Image: Dr Martens.
Classic Dr Marten Boots. Image: Dr Martens.
The brand has been around since the 1940’s when a medical doctor named Klaus Maertens developed the first design. In his twenties, he was enlisted into the German army but quickly suffered a broken foot due to a skiing accident. The standard issue military boots they provided were painful. Such discomfort he faced out in the field drove him to create boots with higher quality soles. Using recycled material looted from war-ravaged Munich, Maertens created a unique air-cushioned sole prototype shoe which he showed to an old university friend, Dr. Herbert Funk. They went into a partnership continuing to produce their eccentric shoes. By 1947, they began the formal production process. Within a decade their business was prosperous, saving thousands of men from unforgiving army boots.
In 1960 the Griggs family in England took over the brand and made a few important changes. The Dr. Martens website claims that these changes included, “...an altered heel, a bulbous but simple upper, a distinctive yellow welt stitch, a two tone grooved sole edge and a unique sole pattern. The boots were branded as ‘Airwair’ and came complete with a black and yellow heel loop featuring the brand name and the slogan “With Bouncing Soles'' (based on Bill Grigg’s own handwriting).” Over the next couple decades they started advertising their brand to youth culture. Feelings of post-war recovery mixed with teenager angst created a perfect moment to pitch their product to a demographic developing their own identity. The 1970’s were the decade of punk artists, glam, and Two Tone in England. Each culture that adopted the boot channeled the look into their styles, creating bold fashion statements.
Punks on King’s Road, London, in 1983. Image: Dr Martens.
Today, the concept of rebellion and self-expression are at the core of Dr. Marten’s brand identity. Josh Sims, vintage menswear expert, sees consumers eye-to-eye on that. “The very appeal of DMs is that they are what they are. You wear them as you see fit. You make them your own. Because DM are regarded as a staple of sorts, they simply move in and out of fashion as fashion dictates.” However, the recent crowd these shoes has migrated towards is Gen Z’ers. Expressivity and acceptance are things that this generation strives for. The brand appeals to young people who are interested in creating a future for themselves that is unique. Darren McKoy, the creative director of Dr. Martens, says, “[Our ethos] is all about empowerment, which is all about creativity, which is all about expressing yourself and being you.”
Mahalia Burkmar wearing Dr Marten platform boots (British singer/song-writer). I Image: Dr Martens.
High-profile sponsorships with Gen Z's celebrities has been another huge reason for the brand's recent success. Artists such as Tyler the Creator, Frank Ocean, Willow Smith, Olivia Rodigo, and Emma Chamberlain can be seen wearing the numerous styles that Dr Martens offer. Emma Chamberlain told Who What Wear in 2020 that, “I tend to only wear platforms so I'm really into platform Docs," she said. "I have the short ankle ones, I have the high ones, I have ones that have a zipper in the front that are high-top." The variety of hundreds of styles from sandals, to platforms, boots, and loafers is why the brand is so attractive; consumers like having a variety of shoe options to fit different looks. McKoy’s team spends time diligently getting to know potential new customer bases on a more personal level. The team has held events that fit both Gen Z’s interests along with the brands, engages in conversations on platforms such as TikTok, and has in-house apprentice programs.
Olivia Rodrigo (American singer/song-writer) wearing Dr Marten platform boots. Image: The Face Magazine.
Empowering these groups by staying connected, grasping inspiration, and revisioning younger models is why the brand has stayed so consistent, not to mention the shoes' comfort and durability that lasts for years and years. Dr. Martens will continue to thrive and be around for generations to come.
Written for Supercut Magazine, 2023.